The untouched roads

We stayed an extra couple nights at Bardiya because it was that good. A place that has no tourists, and amazing people. Where we stayed was just outside the village and it was a short walk before you would have a true feeling of a Nepalese jungle community. Mudd houses, with sticks in bundles for roofs, with bulls in most people's yards. A canal ran beside the road where kids and adults would clean, swim, and play. Everyone greeted us with a hearty smile full of curiosity and trust. It was a place that you could find love around every corner.

After our jungle safari, where we saw 4 wild elephant, 1 wild rhino, and 2 wild Tigers we were thinking about driving to the far west to a wildlife conservation called sukla phanta. Krishna, our hotel owner, and now our good friend suggested we head down towards the black buck conservation, to see a rare breed of buck, and the only breed left in Nepal. Madu, a 20 year old Nepalese man, with incredible English and a smile that could bring light to anyone's day said he'd guide us there and through the park. You need your own bike to get to the blackbuck conservation since the ride is through bumpy rock roads, through sand and over bridges. We would have never gotten there without Madu. Madu took us through a village on the way back which he said had the best marmalade juice. We picked some up, and the tastes were unlike anything I can describe. Locally made. 

When we eventually decided to leave Bardiya we said goodbye to our friends, and got on the long road back to Butwal. We were thinking of heading to Lumbini, budhas birth place, but it would have been late and we decided to stay in Butwal (we discovered the next day when we arrived back at the eco Lodge that it was Buddha's birthday, and there was a big celebration going on in lumbini. We messed up). On our way to the eco Lodge we hit some problems. The district in bardiya had petrol, and we assumed that since the petrol strike is over now that we would be fine. Palpa unfortunately still has no petrol. We road as far as we could, stopping to syphon gas from tank to tank, but we made it to the eco Lodge, where we hoped we could find some gas.

We met up with our friend Vishnu, who owns the eco Lodge who was incredibly happy to see us. Unfortunately he had no petrol and his best suggestion was to drive out of the district, around 60km and bring some back. We called Matt, and he said he met a group of Indian guys last night who are bringing heaps of petrol, and would be able to bring us 10 L.  More than enough to get us to pokhara, I hope.

A Ride far a wide

We woke up and the first thing we needed to do was find gas. We searched town, and a Nepalese man decided to help us. He brought us to a gas station, but it had at least a 2 hour line up. We were told the road West, where we were heading has some, around 30 kilometers. Even though I only had around 30 km in my bike left, we decided to go for it. After stopping at 7 gas stations we finally found a man, who out if the kindness of his heart sold us some of his extra stash. We got incredibly lucky and continued on. We had over 300 kilometers to Bardiya national park, and it was taking us a lot longer than expected. We powered on, constantly asking for directions, and it wasn't until around 6pm that we arrived at the park gates. We pull out the phone and call a zoologist named John from Britain who's expecting us, and has a place for us to stay. He's trying to explain the directions to me, but the phone has little battery left. He's constantly repeating "the Riva. You have to follow the Riva....". That's when the phone died. We continued on into the park until we found a big sign for eco lodges. The sun has set by thus point, and the darkness of night started to take over. A Nepalese man offered to helps us, and says he has a place we can stay. I get him on the back of my bike and have him lead us through the rocky off roads deep on the outside of the park. After 30 minutes of bumpy riding we arrive at a beautiful Lodge in the jungle. We drop down our gear and get some food. A successful day if riding, but a long one. We left at 8am and didn't arrive until 7pm

We've organized a guided tour into the park, to search for some wildlife. A couple from Greece told us they saw a tiger and 5 rhinos the day we arrived. Tomorrow morning at 6am we start the trek

The strike

We left the eco Lodge, but not until 2:30 pm since it was so enjoyable. We only had a short ride of 3 hours to our destination. We took some wrong turns and found ourselves lost, more than once. After many questions the locals succeeded in pointing us towards the road we needed to follow, which took us from the high Hills to the lower rainforest. Another outstanding ride through the valleys of Palpa, Nepal. Tomorrow we plan for a early break to Bardiya national park. A long day, even if all goes to plan, but with the current events in Nepal we doubt that will happen. The gas industry has apparently gone on strike, so nobody in the country is getting fuel. We were told that the strike ended, but nobody has gotten gas yet. We were forced to siphon gas from one tank to the other in order to make our destination, Butwal. 30km to the nearest petrol we were told. Let's hope we can find some and make it to Bardiya

A new road

IV found myself back on the road. How this happened, I do not know, but I'm happy I'm here.

We road out of pokhara with our hooded capes, which soon showed us peril on the road. We accompanied two other riders, one was the owner of the bike shop, Matt and the other he was guiding, from California, named Danni. Within an our of driving my Cape gets mangled in the back wheel, causing a mess of fabric and a delay to the day. It didn't strike the spirits down in any way though. The ride was one of the best rides iv ever done. Beautiful windy roads through mountain valleys, but the Nepalese insists on calling them Hills...

A big day, and it wasn't until 6pm that we arrived. Matt brought us to a good friend outside the city at the farm. Beautiful place to stay in the rolling Nepalese Hills, full of beautiful wilderness. Vishnu, the owner made us a massive meal. He grows and makes all his food, including cheese and bacon, and Matt tells us he's got the best food in Nepal, and some of the best food he's ever had. 

A new turn of events.

15 days of trekking. No porters. No guide. 35 pound backpack and around 70 hours of total walking, and were finished. We made a journey over to pokhara trying to decide what to do next. Lucas is heading home in 10 days, and myself in a month, leaving a lot of options open. A friend of ours who we met on our hike through the everest region came to me with a proposition. A bike trip to the National parks and around southern Nepal. We looked into it further and discovered that this can very easily be done. Lucas didn't seem interested in spending his last bit of traveling in the rain on bikes, but to me this opportunity sounds unforgettable. We've decided to get custom made capes, to make the best out of it. The owner of the bikes has offered to lead us out of pokhara to tenzing tomorrows. A 6 hour ride. Afterwards we plan on making out way to Bardiya, a national park in South west Nepal. From Bardiya we will drive to Chitwan, and from Chitwan either to kathmandu or back to pokhara, depending on how were feeling.

A new journey awaits.

Kathmandu

We've been in kathmandu for a little over a day now and we love it. This place is full of great energy and great people. On top of that iv been waiting for a long time to do some shopping! Like a child in a toy store Iv Purchased some new hiking gear. A - 10 degrees Celsius sleeping bag, jacket, gloves, hat, poles, thermal pants and shirt, and other small little hiking gadgets. We bought a map, and a flight to lukhkla on top of that to start our journey towards everest base camp. It should take around 8-10 days to reach base camp, and afterwards were planning on taking the long way back through Gokyo. I'm beyond holding in my excitement. the trek will take somewhere over 20 days to complete. It'll be a long journey, but it will be a beautiful one taking us as high as 5800 meters. Our flight to lukhkla is tomorrow morning at 6am, which will take us through some of the most beautiful views of everest and Lhoste. Internet will be a scarce commodity so this may be my last post until we're back.

The journey to Nepal

We went to the varanasi station around 11pm to catch the night train to Gorakhpor. Sleeper section. Loud, and crowded. With little to no sleep we arrived in Gorakhpor around 9am. We found a bus leaving to the Nepal border, which would take around 3 hours. It was a local bus, meaning not much room to breathe. People on your lap, people on the floor, people everywhere. Around 1pm, After 3 clostrophobic hours of sweaty madness we arrived at he border. We made it through with no problems, and we received a 1 month visa which is just what we were looking for. We find out the next bus leaving to kathmandu is at 7pm,amd it's a night bus. A local night bus. We waited 5 hours for the bus, and then jumped on. This bus was probably the worst bus experience of my life. The room was limited. Another clostrophobic ride where with little room. Throughout the ride I had a Nepal women sit on my lap, and Nepal man continually try and ask me questions about my life, and multiple people sleeping on me. The bus went through the windy foothills of Nepal, and since I wasn't sleeping the entire night I got the pleasure of seeing 4 big vehicles that ran off the road or were on their sides. Around 5-6am we arrived n kathmandu, but this wasn't the end. After a search for a taxi driver who knew how to get to our hotel it was still another 5-km drive. The drive was good, until about half halfway the taxi stalls out. After 5 minutes of listening to this car grasp for life I get out and start pushing. The car starts, the car stalls. The car starts, the car stalls. Eventually we make it to the hotel, exhausted and fatigued. "do you have any rooms?"....." sorry, sir, youre going to have to wait". We wait in the lobby for about an hour before we get some beds, and like tree being chopped down we collapse into unconsciousness.

Day 90 (i think), Varanasi

As days go by in varanasi I capture more and more photos, but with the heat and humidity it makes it difficult to continue past noon. IV found myself waking up around 6am, and by the mid afternoon enjoying cafes in different parts of the city. I have also discovered that the visa that we purchased for India, which they told us lasts 1 month, is actually a 6 month Visa. I could stay here much longer, but my blood is flowing more eagerly. With the Nepal hiking season starting up from April-June 9th I can't stay in India, The himalayas are on my mind. Withing the week we'll be In Nepal, and in visual distance of the rooftop of the world. Iv buried my nose in a book "into thin air" (author of into the wild), which tells the first hand story of the everest disaster. The first half of the book is ascending to base camp, the hike we'll be doing when we enter Nepal. At 17,600 feet, with the oxygen levels half of what they are at sea level. IV been waiting for a new challenge.

Varanasi

Varanasi. One of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and the holiest place in India.

After arriving by train I made my way to a hotel, I explored, and found. Within a couple hours I met two friends from pushkar and also found some interesting people around my hotel. I met a man, shiva, who's offered me a nice place to stay, and is open to helping me with my photography. Many of the sadhus in varanasi are "fake" and not true sadhus. Meer beggars. Shiva is working on getting me a one on one with a Naga Sandhu.

There's a festival going on for the next nine days in varanasi for shiva (not the hotel man, the Hindu God..) which gives me great opportunity to get some shots. Varanasi is busy as all of India is, but I really like it. It's got a uniqueness to it unlike anywhere iv been before. Afterwards we will be taking the train and bus to Nepal.

Blog pause.

At the moment I'm in jodhpur, and leaving to Varanasi tomorrow. Wifi is hard to find so as a result I won't be posting as much. The plan is to spend the rest of my time in varanasi and then head to Nepal. Lucas is staying in jodhpur, and going to hampi next. He'll meet me in varanasi in a week

Desert trekking. Day 1-4

Day 1.

We started off by driving 20 kilometers or so outside of jaisalmer into the desert to meet up with our camels and guides. We met 2 people from Mylasia and trekked with them for the first day. Walking and walking, lunch, then more walking until dinner. The whole day was desert but there were small trees and bushes until we hit the dunes. The dunes were much nicer, and better to camp in, but they didn't go on for long. The entire thar desert is always changing from hard rocky desert, to small trees desert, to desert ocean dunes. Ones things for certain, it's hot. The night time consisted of camp fires, Chai tea, and a desert meal that the guides would make from hand. For breakfast it was always hard boiled eggs, toast and jam, and crackers. For lunch it was spices and vegetables with chapati, and for dinner it was rice, vegetables and chapati again. It was easy to get used to the desert at night. The stars are blistering out of the sky in every direction. We slept on blankets in the sand, and quickly had to get used to the desert night life. Beetles, scorpions, and snakes would be out at night. The scorpions and snakes were deadly poisonous, but the Beetles didn't bite. We spent the first night having Beetles snug under our blankets and walk over top of us. We awoke our morning to Beetle tracks all around and through our blankets.

Day 2

We split up from our friends since they were only doing a 1 day trek. Me, Lucas, and our guide, Piru went further on. We never really knew where we were going or where we were. We would come across wells, and after lunch was had, we came across a desert village where we had another guide join, Mango. Mango was quiet, but was always trying his best to make everyone happy. When we started the trek, Piru would have the camels and walk them to where we need to go, but by the second day we were in full control of the camels, which was good, except I had no idea where we were going. We eventually came across more dunes where we set up camp and spent the night.

Day 3

We spent day three making distance.
We came across 2 more villages where we got greeted by young children. They were so full of energy and we were completely exhausted, but they still made the day better. When we arrived at our 3rd village we met another guide and foreigner doing a 1 day trek so we decided to carry on together. We eventually made it out to more dunes, and started setting up camp again. We found a small hut in the dunes which had beds, or tables that gave us something to sleep on. Piru explained to me that we're in snake sands. Lots of snakes come out at night where we are. Don't go to the bathroom at night unless you have to. We survived the night, but unfortunately against our luck we got rained on. Not much you can do when you get rained on in the desert. The days were hot and the nights were cold, but it was great.

Day 4

We awoke with the daily routines, made Chai tea, hard boiled eggs, toast and jam, and crackers. We talked for as long as you can before it gets too hot and made our way. We walked until we found a road where we got picked up. 4 days was a good amount of time in the desert. Our guide Piru has been there for 20 years

Jaisalmer.

We took a night bus to jaisalmer from pushkar. all crazy bumps and madness for the whole night but we made it. Found Abu's safari, a hotel and camel trek guide who we arranged a 4 dey trek towards the Pakistan border. All about could tell us about the trek was "deep deep desert, very good". Tomorrow morning at 8 we will have the thar desert (the great Indian desert) to explore. It will be me, Lucas, our guide and our 3 camels.

We met up with our friend from Phong Nha, Tes, and spent some time seeing jaisalmer. The fort in jaisalmer is outstanding! Still with hundreds of people living in it. Jaisalmer is beautiful, but I'm interested in what lays beyond the city.

I won't be posting for 4 days. I'll be back with a story or two.

Rajasthan, pushkar.

We've spent the last couple days in pushkar, relaxing, and getting more involved in the Indian ways. Cows, monkeys, and dogs live here the same as any one else would, and they are treated the same. It's very common to be walking and have to make your way around bulls in the street, or to step in their poo. We've already become accustomed to this, bulls and monkeys are just part of a normal day.

We rented a motorcycle the other day and took it outside the city. There's not a lot out there but one thing I can say for certain is Indian drivers are the worst drivers I have ever witnessed.

We've witnessed a lot more of the culture here in pushkar, and also we've been apart of it. Today we bathed in the ghats. Tomorrow we will be leaving to jaisalmer. There we will take camels into the desert towards the Pakistan border. 4 days and 3 nights.